Hjörleifshöfði

About Hjörleifshöfði

Hjörleifshöfði rises 221 meters out of the black sand of Mýrdalssandur, a cliff-sided block of tuff with a green cap that looks like an island stranded on dry land. It formed in an eruption under the ice late in the last Ice Age, and floods from the Katla volcano have since built the sand plain out around it. The big 1918 eruption pushed the coast farther south, creating the spit of Kötlutangi below the headland.

The name means Hjörleifur's Headland. According to the medieval Book of Settlements, Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson, sworn brother of Iceland's first settler Ingólfur Arnarson, landed here and was killed by his own slaves soon after. A mound on the summit is traditionally called his grave. People kept farming at Hjörleifshöfði until 1936, and the family plot of the last farmers, including Markús Loftsson, who wrote a book about the 1783 Skaftá Fires, sits on top as well.

That summit is the reason to stop. A marked trail climbs from the parking lots on the west side, and a loop over the top takes most hikers two to three hours with time for the view. From up there you look across the sand to Mýrdalsjökull, along the coast toward the Reynisdrangar sea stacks, and down onto the old farm site. Expect wind on the open plateau, and keep back from the cliff edges.

The road to Hjörleifshöfði is a signposted gravel track that turns south off the Ring Road about 15 km east of Vík, roughly 2 hours 45 minutes from Reykjavík. Ordinary cars usually manage it in good weather, but it gets rough after heavy rain or snow. The land is private and the parking lots charge a fee, so read the signs when you arrive.

Summer is the easiest time to hike, though the headland is worth a look in any season. There are no toilets or services, so stock up in Vík first, and check the wind forecast on vedur.is because Mýrdalssandur is known for sandstorms. The Gígjagjá cave sits at the foot of the cliffs a short walk from the parking, so most people see both on the same stop.