About Hvalfjörður
Hvalfjörður is a fjord in West Iceland, about 30 km long and 5 km wide, between Mosfellsbær and Akranes, with its mouth roughly 40 minutes' drive north of Reykjavík. Most drivers heading north never see it, because Route 1 dives under the water through the Hvalfjörður tunnel.
That is their loss. Driving Route 47 around the shore adds about an hour, and in return you get quiet beaches, farms and valleys with almost no traffic, plus Glymur and the Hvammsvík nature baths along the way.
The name means Whale Fjord. Nobody knows for sure why, though one theory points to whales stranded here in the settlement era and another to the mountain Hvalfell at the head of the fjord. A folk tale prefers a red-headed whale called Rauðhöfði, created when an elf woman cursed her unfaithful lover.
The Hvalfjörður tunnel opened in 1998 and runs about 5.8 km under the fjord, reaching 165 m below sea level. Since September 2018 it has been toll-free, which makes it the obvious choice when you're in a hurry.
Glymur, one of Iceland's tallest waterfalls at about 198 m, is the big draw at the head of the fjord. The full hiking loop crosses the Botnsá river, which is only practical in summer, so time your visit for the warmer months if you want the whole loop. Closer to the mouth, the Hvammsvík nature baths sit right on the shore.
During the Second World War, Hvalfjörður was a busy Allied naval anchorage, and Arctic convoys bound for the Soviet Union gathered here. Outside summer, check the official road-conditions map and weather warnings before choosing the shore road over the tunnel.
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